From Artisan's Asylum

(Difference between revisions)
Jump to: navigation, search
Line 1: Line 1:
|tool_title        = Asylasaur
|tool_title        = Asylasaur
Line 449: Line 449:

Revision as of 18:02, 27 June 2014

{ToolBox |tool_title = Asylasaur |tool_subtitle = Large Format Laser Cutter |image = Asylasaur-old.jpg |caption = Picture of generic Lasersaur |make = Lasersaur |model = 14.01 |serial = 007 |manufacturer_specs = Project Lasersaur Overview |manual = Project Lasersaur manual |location = Digital Fabrication |species = Laser Cutters |reservations = reservation system [help] |owner = Derek Seabury }


PVC or Vinyl

Neoprene and other

“chlorinated” rubbers

Anything with halogens

When vaporized, any plastic with Fluorine, Chlorine, Bromine, Iodine (or

Astatine) will decompose into toxic/corrosive compounds/free radicals that are Bad for humans, the Asylasaur's optics and the outside environment. A laser is usually not the best tool for cutting these materials.

plastic/artificial leather

Bonded Leather

“pleather” usually contains vinyl. Other leather substitutes have diverse

chemistries, often proprietary/secret, so we can't know their safety

ABS Gives off cyanide when cut; tend to melt rather than engrave well
HDPE Tends to melt to sticky goo and may burn, rather than cutting clean edges

Foamcore > 1/8”

Gatorboard (etc.)

Polystyrene is the #1 cause of laser-damaging fires (partly because many makerspaces permit it). Most foamcore is polystyrene covered in paper which may act as a candle wick. Even in a successful cut the plastic foam edges cup, rather than cutting squarely. Laser is usually not the best tool.
Fiberglass Glass fibers scatter IR instead of cutting; the binding resin gives off fumes
Coated carbon fiber

Carbon composites

(anything with epoxy)

Plain carbon fiber cuts okay (with possible fraying) but anything containing

epoxy or similar resins will give off toxic/corrosive fumes when vaporized

Bare Metals

Metals generally won't cut or etch, but a laser may burn paint/coatings off metals for a nice effect.

Cermet or moly grease can be used to mark metal


May melt and burn. Melted drops become rock hard on cooling. These can

be difficult to remove, and may adhere the plastic sheet to the grid


Flat Glass Rate Power % NOTES
Anodized Aluminum
Painted/coated metal
Finished stone
Tempered hardboard Glues/resins in some engineered wood product may fume
Solid wood Watch resinous/oily woods closely
Many plywoods


Thickness Power % Rate Notes
Solid Wood < 0.25” Oily resinous woods should be watched for smoke/fire risk
Most Plywoods < 0.25” Some plywoods have glues/resin that may smoke/flame; Baltic Birch is good
MDF, Eng. Woods < 0.25” Some engineered woods have resin that may smoke/flame


Cuts beautifully with clean edges

Do not confuse Lucite with Lexan (Polycarbonate) which tends to char/burn

Delrin Good for gears. Higher Shore numbers cut better
Kapton Tape or sheet
Mylar Thick sheets may curl/bubble. Gold-coated reflects beam
Styrene a lot of smoke but reportedly works okay; some concern about toxic styrene monomer
Depron foam Good for RC, architectural models, but must be monitored closely
Gator Foam Commonly used but see warning for polystyrene foam under “AVOID”
Leather (real) 100 % < 50% Hard to cut. Use high power and low speed
Magnetic sheet Cuts very well. Available at Staples
Rubber (non-chlorine) Try to know your source, to assure not halogenated
Carbon fiber/mats Uncoated carbon fiber only. Cut ends of mats may fray
Plastic mirrors Cut face down so reflective surface is vaporized
Personal tools
Wiki Maintenance