Saw Stop Table Saw and Category:Drill Presses: Difference between pages

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[[Category:Tools]][[Category:Wood Shop]]
[[Category:Tools]][[Category:Drills]]


{{ToolBox
{{ToolBox
   |tool_title        = Saw Stop 10-inch Table Saw
   |tool_title        = Drill Press
   |tool_subtitle      = Saw Stop 10-inch Table Saw
   |tool_subtitle      = Drill Press
   |image              = Wood_Shop_Saw_stop_table_saw_action_shot_reduced.jpg
   |image              = woodshop_drill_presses.png
   |caption            = Fred the Table Saw in Action
   |caption            = Four drill presses in the Wood Shop
   |make              = Saw Stop
   |make              = various
   |model              = ICS53230
   |model              =  
   |serial            =  
   |serial            =  
   |manufacturer_specs =  
   |manufacturer_specs =  
   |manual            = [https://drive.google.com/file/d/1HoOGNp8pL9gtpGovoT_u_d8qge5tzOjJ/view?usp=drive_link Manual]
   |manual            =  
   |location          = Wood Shop
   |location          = Wood Shop
   |rubric            =  
   |rubric            =  
Line 18: Line 18:
   |tool_categories    =  
   |tool_categories    =  
}}
}}
'''This is a [[RED]] tool.  Training and tool-testing are required.'''


==Description==
==Description==


A table saw has a rotating circular saw blade that projects up through the surface of a horizontal tableWorkpieces are fed by hand through the blade to make straight cuts.  To steady the workpiece there are two choices: a linear fence, called a "rip" fence, and a bracket called a "miter gauge" that slides in a slot in the table.  Custom jigs are also possible, as shown to the right.  The blade can be tilted with respect to the table top, and the miter gauge permits the workpiece to be rotated to any angle.
A drill press is a free-standing power tool with a vertical sliding spindle that carries a chuck for drillingThe spindle, or "quill" is moved up and down manually by a wheel or handle to the side.  The workpiece is supported by a horizontal table with adjustable height.  Workpieces are clamped down to the table or held in a vise while they are drilled to varying diameters, generally ranging from 1/16" up to 3/4".


==Use For==
==Use For (Depending on Location)==


* Dry, flat lumber
Wood


* Boards
Metal


* Plywood sheets
Plastic


==Do Not Use For==
Composites


* Logs, carvings, or other irregular lumber
Graphite


* Pressure-treated
Regular and irregular shapes (as long as they can be clamped down)


* Wet lumber
==Do Not Use For==
 
* Plastic
 
* Metal or metal-coated
 
* Composites
 
* Carbon-filled materials
 
==The Wood Shop Collection==
 
The Wood Shop has two table saws located in opposite corners of the room:
 
{| class="infobox" cellspacing="5" style="width: 2em; text-align: left; font-size: 100%; line-height: 1.5em;"
! colspan="2" class="infobox-image" | [[File:Table_saw_Ethel_reduced.jpg|250px|Ethel small]]
|-
| colspan="2" | Ethel relaxing
|-
|}
 
{| class="infobox" cellspacing="5" style="width: 2em; text-align: left; font-size: 100%; line-height: 1.5em;"
! colspan="2" class="infobox-image" | [[File:Table_saw_Fred_reduced.jpg|250px|Fred small]]
|-
| colspan="2" | Fred in repose
|-
|}
 
 
* '''Fred''' is located close to the main door in the northeast corner of the room.  It uses a ?-Hp 3-phase 240-volt motor.  This saw is more powerful, but with a smaller table.  It is better suited for cutting boards, but will cut both boards and sheets.
 
* '''Ethel''' is located opposite, in the southwest corner of the room. It uses a ?-Hp single-phase 240-volt motor.  This saw has a very broad table, so it is better suited for cutting plywood sheets, but it will cut boards too.
 
==Table Saw Safety Notes==
{{EyeWarning}}
* Saw stop technology detects blade contact with the skin and '''stops the blade within milliseconds.'''  It doesn't prevent injury, but minimizes the severity when used correctly.  Disabling the mechanism risks much worse injury.


* '''Dust:'''  All forms of dust are hazardous, some particularly so.  '''Always use the dust control system,''' and it is recommended that you also wear a dust mask.
Thin sheets


* '''Keep the guards in place.'''
Parts too big to be lifted onto the table


* Remove wrenches and adjusting keys before switching on the saw.
Ceramics or other abrasive materials


* Remove clutter from the top of the saw.
Material that is unsuitable to the shop where the tool is located.


* '''Keep hands out of the line of the saw blade.'''
==Machines at AA==


{| class="infobox" cellspacing="5" style="width: 22em; text-align: left; font-size: 100%; line-height: 1.5em;"
{| class="infobox" cellspacing="5" style="width: 22em; text-align: left; font-size: 100%; line-height: 1.5em;"
! colspan="2" class="infobox-image" | [[File:Table_saw_blade_closeup.png|350px|Blade closeup]]
! colspan="2" class="infobox-image" | [[File:Drill_press_labeled.png|500px|Drill press labeled]]
|-
|-
| colspan="2" | Table saw blades rotate at about 4000 RPM, with a surface speed of about 120 mph.
| colspan="2" | Parts of a Drill Press
|-
|-
|}
|}


* '''Use a push-stick when required'''
Artisans Asylum has nine drill presses distributed in various shops around the Antwerp St. building:


* '''Use the blade guard and spreader (or riving knife)''' for every operation where possible, including all through sawing.
* Wood Shop: 4


* Never reach around or over the saw blade.
-  Rikon 30-250


* Never try to test-fire the brake system.
- Delta 11-990


* '''Unplug the saw before changing the blade or servicing.'''
-  Delta 17-965


* '''No loose clothing,''' neckties, rings, bracelets, or other jewelry.  Non-slip footwear. Tie back or cover long hair.
Dayton 3Z918D


* Keep proper footing and balance at all times
* Metal Shop: 2


* '''Unplug the saw before servicing or changing blades.'''
-  Dake SGB-32V


* Never stand on the saw.
-  Morgan MD-80A


* '''Perform a safety check:''' 
* Machine Shop: 2


- Alignment of moving parts
- Dake SGB-32V


- No binding or rubbing
- Walker-Turner (antique)


- Make sure accessories are mounted properly
* Bike Shop: 1


- Repair or replace damaged guards or other parts
- "SKUL DP02" (antique Delta, ca. 1940)


* Feed the work against the direction of rotation of the blade.
==Parts of a Drill Press==


* Never leave the saw running unattended.
'''Drive'''


* Always maintain firm control over the material being cut.  '''Never cut freehand.'''
Drill-presses are invariably belt-driven, with a motor in the backSpeeds can be changed by moving the belt from one step to another on the multiple-step pulleys.  The belt and pulley system poses a severe hazard to the user if the belt cover isn't in place.


* Never operate with the access doors open.
'''Spindle and Chuck'''


==The SawStop Safety System==
The spindle is a spline shaft geared to the quill handle.  The pulley at the top is able to rotate the spindle while the handle is free to raise and lower the chuck for drilling.  The quill handle can also be locked in place, usually with a rotating handle.


The device doesn't prevent injury.  In fact, injury must occur before the system can reactHow severe an injury depends on how fast the person is moving. This machine includes an electronic detection system and a fast-acting brake to reduce the potential for serious injury during accidental contact with the blade.
The most common chuck is the "Jacobs" style, with three jaws and a characteristic chuck key with gear teeth on its noseThis is designed to hold a drill bit (or other rotary tool) on-center with a minimum of wobble during drilling. '''DO NOT USE A DRILL PRESS FOR SIDE-MILLING!'''  The chuck and spindle aren't designed to handle the lateral forces and these can ruin the machine's accuracy for other users.


{| class="infobox" cellspacing="5" style="width: 22em; text-align: left; font-size: 100%; line-height: 1.5em;"
'''Table'''
! colspan="2" class="infobox-image" | [[File:Table_saw_brake_cartridge.png|450px|Saw stop cartridge]]
|-
| colspan="2" | Inside view of the saw showing the SawStop brake cartridge
|-
|}


The mechanism is contained in a cartridge underneath the cutting table that is activated by contact with human skin.  When this happens, a strong spring forces an aluminum brake shoe into contact with the blade, retracting and stopping it within a few milliseconds.  
The table is usually horizontal, though some drill presses allow for the table to be tilted.  The height is adjustable, sometimes with a crank, and sometimes with a simple clamp.  When the table is simply clamped to the vertical post, care must be taken to support the weight of the table when the handle is loosened.


Practically, if the user's hand moves at about 1 foot per second, the blade will have stopped by the time the hand has moved about 1/20 of an inch, so the user will incur a scrape about that deepBody parts that are thrown in faster will be cut deeper, even if the system works perfectly.
The table usually has slots or key-ways for attaching clamps or vises to hold the workpiece in place.  Drilling a workpiece that isn't clamped down is very risky:  The drill can jam in the hole during the drilling and the workpiece can start whirling aroundThis is particularly dangerous with thin sheets or parts with sharp edges.


'''The cartridges can only be used once:''' Once triggered they must be replaced.  This also destroys the blade.
'''Base and Post'''


The blade retracts into the table when the brake is activatedReaching UNDER a spinning blade when the brake is activated may cause a serious injury.
The tool is free-standing, either on the floor or on a bench-topThe base is usually a heavy iron casting and the post is ground steel to support the clamping of the table mechanism.


For those electronics nerds among you, the system applies a high-frequency electrical signal to the blade that is tuned to the impedance of the human bodyTouching the blade decreases the amplitude of the signal significantly, causing the control system to trip the spring on the brake shoe and stop the blade.
For safety, it is recommended that drill presses be bolted down at the base (either to the floor or bench-top.)  As of this writing, NONE of the drill presses at Artisans Asylum are bolted downAccordingly, users must be cautious about the tool tipping over and crashing to the floor.


Wood doesn't trigger the mechanism. 
==Tools to Use on a Drill Press==


Electrically conductive materials such as metal, carbon-filled, or metal-coated sheet materials WILL trigger the brake, as will wet pressure-treated lumber, so they should NOT be cut using this machine unless necessary precautions are taken.  Refer to Page 33 of the [https://drive.google.com/file/d/1HoOGNp8pL9gtpGovoT_u_d8qge5tzOjJ/view?usp=drive_link manual].
'''Twist Drills'''


Blades that don't have the specified diameter for the SawStop system won't benefit from itThere is a special cartridge for 8-inch dado blades up to 13/16" thick, but cutters known as "molding heads" won't benefit from the systemJust to be clear, we mean: [https://www.grizzly.com/products/woodstock-2-moulding-head-with-3-4-bore/d1700?gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAiA_aGuBhACEiwAly57MW4I69OiNet3aDhceeM2OL0JjhsgYb_t73GLxCAcC11Iqh63E0sg1RoCrRQQAvD_BwE "Molding head"] and not [https://medlineplus.gov/ency/imagepages/9696.htm "Head molding"]
This is by far the most common drill bitThough they are designed for cutting metals, they can cut a wide variety of materials, including woodCertain plastics can be problematic, and there are specially ground analogs to these drills especially for plastics.


{| class="infobox" cellspacing="5" style="width: 22em; text-align: left; font-size: 100%; line-height: 1.5em;"
{| class="infobox" cellspacing="5" style="width: 22em; text-align: left; font-size: 100%; line-height: 1.5em;"
! colspan="2" class="infobox-image" | [[File:Red_tag.png|280px|Red tag]]
! colspan="2" class="infobox-image" | [[File:twist_drill_set.png|500px|Drill set]]
|-
|-
| colspan="2" | A red maintenance tag.
| colspan="2" | A set of twist drills.
|-
|-
|}
|}
==What To Do if the SawStop Brake is Triggered==
* Put a red tag on the machine explaining what happened.
* Call or email the shop lead. 
* Do not attempt to repair.
==Starting and Stopping the Saw==


{| class="infobox" cellspacing="5" style="width: 22em; text-align: left; font-size: 100%; line-height: 1.5em;"
{| class="infobox" cellspacing="5" style="width: 22em; text-align: left; font-size: 100%; line-height: 1.5em;"
! colspan="2" class="infobox-image" | [[File:Table_saw_start_stop_labeled.png|300px|Start/stop]]
! colspan="2" class="infobox-image" | [[File:twist_drill_diagram.png|420px|Drill diagram]]
|-
|-
| colspan="2" | The SawStop switch box with main power switch, start/stop paddle, and status indicator lights.  Green light indicates the saw is ready to start.
| colspan="2" | Important dimensions on a twist drill
|-
|-
|}
|}
'''To START the table saw:'''
1.  Switch on the dust collector.  Both machines use the Coral AF/4C central dust collector.
2.  Make sure the Start/Stop paddle is pushed in before switching on the main power.
3.  Switch the Main power to ON.  The machine will go through a self-check sequence that takes 5-10 seconds.
4.  If all is well, the GREEN indicator light will be on without blinking.
* Any other combination of lights indicates an error.  ''See error codes below.''
5.  To start the motor for the saw, pull the Start/Stop paddle out.
'''To STOP the table saw'''
1.  Push the Start/Stop paddle in.
2.  While the blade is coasting down, the GREEN indicator will blink.  '''DO NOT TOUCH THE BLADE UNTIL IT IS STOPPED!''' You can set off the SawStop brake.
3.  When finished with the saw, turn the Main power OFF.
{| class="infobox" cellspacing="5" style="width: 22em; text-align: left; font-size: 100%; line-height: 1.5em;"
! colspan="2" class="infobox-image" | [[File:Table_saw_LED_error_codes.png|450px|LED codes]]
|-
| colspan="2" | Status codes on the switch box indicator.  See pp. 31-32 of the [https://drive.google.com/file/d/1HoOGNp8pL9gtpGovoT_u_d8qge5tzOjJ/view?usp=drive_link manual] for detailed descriptions of these codes.
|-
|}
*  '''The paddle is placed so that the operator can turn the machine off with their knee in an emergency if their hands are occupied.'''

Revision as of 22:51, 18 February 2024



Drill Press
Four drill presses in the Wood Shop
General Info
Make various
Model
Serial
Specs
Manual
Asylum Info
Location Wood Shop
Rubric
Training
Testing
Restrictions red


Description

A drill press is a free-standing power tool with a vertical sliding spindle that carries a chuck for drilling. The spindle, or "quill" is moved up and down manually by a wheel or handle to the side. The workpiece is supported by a horizontal table with adjustable height. Workpieces are clamped down to the table or held in a vise while they are drilled to varying diameters, generally ranging from 1/16" up to 3/4".

Use For (Depending on Location)

Wood

Metal

Plastic

Composites

Graphite

Regular and irregular shapes (as long as they can be clamped down)

Do Not Use For

Thin sheets

Parts too big to be lifted onto the table

Ceramics or other abrasive materials

Material that is unsuitable to the shop where the tool is located.

Machines at AA

Drill press labeled
Parts of a Drill Press

Artisans Asylum has nine drill presses distributed in various shops around the Antwerp St. building:

  • Wood Shop: 4

- Rikon 30-250

- Delta 11-990

- Delta 17-965

- Dayton 3Z918D

  • Metal Shop: 2

- Dake SGB-32V

- Morgan MD-80A

  • Machine Shop: 2

- Dake SGB-32V

- Walker-Turner (antique)

  • Bike Shop: 1

- "SKUL DP02" (antique Delta, ca. 1940)

Parts of a Drill Press

Drive

Drill-presses are invariably belt-driven, with a motor in the back. Speeds can be changed by moving the belt from one step to another on the multiple-step pulleys. The belt and pulley system poses a severe hazard to the user if the belt cover isn't in place.

Spindle and Chuck

The spindle is a spline shaft geared to the quill handle. The pulley at the top is able to rotate the spindle while the handle is free to raise and lower the chuck for drilling. The quill handle can also be locked in place, usually with a rotating handle.

The most common chuck is the "Jacobs" style, with three jaws and a characteristic chuck key with gear teeth on its nose. This is designed to hold a drill bit (or other rotary tool) on-center with a minimum of wobble during drilling. DO NOT USE A DRILL PRESS FOR SIDE-MILLING! The chuck and spindle aren't designed to handle the lateral forces and these can ruin the machine's accuracy for other users.

Table

The table is usually horizontal, though some drill presses allow for the table to be tilted. The height is adjustable, sometimes with a crank, and sometimes with a simple clamp. When the table is simply clamped to the vertical post, care must be taken to support the weight of the table when the handle is loosened.

The table usually has slots or key-ways for attaching clamps or vises to hold the workpiece in place. Drilling a workpiece that isn't clamped down is very risky: The drill can jam in the hole during the drilling and the workpiece can start whirling around. This is particularly dangerous with thin sheets or parts with sharp edges.

Base and Post

The tool is free-standing, either on the floor or on a bench-top. The base is usually a heavy iron casting and the post is ground steel to support the clamping of the table mechanism.

For safety, it is recommended that drill presses be bolted down at the base (either to the floor or bench-top.) As of this writing, NONE of the drill presses at Artisans Asylum are bolted down. Accordingly, users must be cautious about the tool tipping over and crashing to the floor.

Tools to Use on a Drill Press

Twist Drills

This is by far the most common drill bit. Though they are designed for cutting metals, they can cut a wide variety of materials, including wood. Certain plastics can be problematic, and there are specially ground analogs to these drills especially for plastics.

Drill set
A set of twist drills.
Drill diagram
Important dimensions on a twist drill